Considering climate change and extreme weather conditions, outerwear companies displaying their fall collections in Milan came prepared, with multilayered, overprotective gear, humungous puffers and high-performance options.
Setting the tone for wintery dystopia, Matthew Williams for 1017 Alyx 9SM paraded bulky padded vests over tunic-like puffers paired with technical underpinnings.
Taking the “Apocalypse Now” theme quite literally, Californian but Rome-based designer Justin Gall said backstage at his first Milan live show that he was motivated by “feelings triggered by things that bother me internally.” This translated into a strong outerwear offering with military-inflections filled with topsy-turvy looks leaving the audience guessing how many layered pieces each model was sporting.
“Survival is a motivation of mine,” he said, and this was apparent in balaclavas, backpack-equipped puffers and pocketed half-padded hybrid pants, which were only softened via textured, crackled and veined fabrics in mimetic nuances of greens, camel and black.
Performance and city attire mingled in the fall offering of Husky, which is aiming higher by differentiating its premium line from the more commercially savvy Husky Original unveiled at Pitti Uomo. Building on its 60-year expertise in fabric research, Husky’s fall collection included coats and jackets with a sartorial bent.
Husky, men’s fall 2022
Courtesy of Husky
Among the standouts, the brand introduced a lightweight duffle coat lined with Husky’s traditional quilts and provided with a detachable padded vest doubled with cashmere and wool, which made for a versatile and cross-season city coat.
While fashion brands are tapping into performance outerwear, category specialists are following the reverse path, trying to expand their scope beyond the active lifestyle to embrace a more quotidian and approachable look.
Presenting for the first time in Milan after seasons in Paris, skiwear company Jet Set, founded in 1969 in Sankt Moritz, Switzerland, debuted its fall coed collection peppering sustainably padded puffer jackets with shimmering or wet-look finishings, as well as subtle leopard patterns, providing its customers — now expanded via deals with online players such as Mytheresa and Net-a-porter — carryovers from the slopes to the city.
Jet Set, men’s fall 2022
Courtesy of Jet Set
Similarly, activewear specialist Spyder toned down its athletic spirit with a fashion show that was richer in cool jackets – fleece anoraks, color-blocked parkas, splash-painted puffers and teddy bear bombers — than running attire. Zingy hues and off-kilter color combinations, think lime green and lilac, injected a mood-boosting attitude to winter garb, including padded and quilted pants.