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In retrospect, Francesco Risso’s January 2020 menswear show for Marni seems prophetic. The collection took inspiration from Edgar Allen Poe’s “The Masque of the Red Death,”This tells the story of plague and social excess. After 16 months of living with the pandemic, these themes resonate with the designer.
On this week’s episode of the BoF Podcast, Risso tells BoF’s editor-at-large Tim Blanks why fashion’s habits of over-production and lavish runways are now “redundant”And where he believes the industry should move from here.
RissoHe has always looked back at brand archives as inspiration. But now he sees an opportunity for that to be extended to create timeless designs. “Every season we take stuff from the old archives… and it’s become Marni’s prerogative, so every collection we have those heirlooms,”Says Risso. “I’m very a big fan of trying to be responsible with design in that sense.”
RissoReflections onThe importance of simplicity Refocusing onMarni has placed a lot of emphasis on making connections and celebrating small things over the past 12 months. “I think it really forced us to focus on the authenticity of our ideas and also to celebrate them at a certain point… we [celebrated] in a very light and primitive kind of way,”He said.
According to Risso, who calls for more permanent change to the industry’s schedule by reducing the number of collections in a year. “I would love that whatever we have learnt right now is not just thrown off,”Says Risso.
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