London Fashion Week Looks Beyond Burberry | The Week Ahead, BoF Professional

London Fashion Week, Unmoored


London Fashion Week takes place Sept. 17-21

The schedule is missing several major brands like Burberry and Victoria Beckham.

Notable designers who showed were Supriya Leele, Harris Reed, and Nensi Tojaka

This year, Victoria Beckham and Burberry, the two mainstays of London Fashion Week are not on the schedule. The absence of Burberry is particularly painful, it being the British brand with the most muscle to draw international editors and buyers to London (though many top players are still coming, including Vogue’s Anna Wintour). But Burberry’s absence also makes more space for London designers hoping to burnish the city’s reputation as a hotbed of emerging talent. Insiders are buzzing about Supriya, who is now back at fashionWeek after a two year absence. Her past collections were inspired from everything from her Indian heritage and the Y2K aesthetic. Also on the radar is Harris Reed, recently anointed British GQ’s breakthrough designer of the year, who is showing his gender fluid fashionThe Serpentine Gallery is currently on a different schedule. Ditto Nensi Donjaka’s mesh dresses have been a hit among Bella Hadid, Kaia Geber, and most recently the panel that awarded the LVMH Prize.

Bottom Line: Although small and buzzy brands may not have the capacity to replace Burberry, London Fashion Week has the ability to prove that small brands can. fashionFor a new generation, it’s still a smart move to show in September or Feb. That said, it’s telling that some of the designers who gave NYFW back some of its buzz, including Christopher John Rogers, Pyer Moss and Telfar, have since opted to show elsewhere, or not at all.

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The Met Gala Returns

After being cancelled in 2020, the Met Gala will now be held on September 13, following a postponement from May.

Expect a smaller crowd and perhaps a younger crowd (the average celebrity co-chair is 23).

Instagram will sponsor the event and accompanying exhibition, featuring creations by featured designers that can be purchased on the platform.

Some would be able to smell blood at the Met Gala’s scaled-down event. An anonymous source told the New York Post that the event was losing its luster and that A-list celebrities were avoiding tables with TikTok influencers. It’s not a stretch to assume this year’s Met Gala will generate less buzz than pre-pandemic editions; if the Olympics, the Oscars and the Super Bowl couldn’t attract the same crowds, Anna Wintour probably should lower her expectations as well. But the influencer debate feels a bit stale, given that it’s been flaring annually at least since Kim Kardashian scored her first invite in 2013. Hollywood doesn’t produce megastars anymore, so the fashionThe industry needs to look elsewhere for celebrities that resonate with their customers. They are increasingly finding them online. So is the money: Instagram’s sponsoring the gala, complete with exclusive merch created by American designers including Virgil Abloh, Christopher John Rogers and Prabal Gurung.

The Bottom Line: This is the first Met Gala since last summer’s protests as well as the 2020 election and Jan. 6 uprising. The event’s theme, American fashionOrganisers and attendees need to be present in the moment.

A New Sneaker Giant

On Running filed for an IPO which would place the shoemaker at $6Billion

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Roger Federer has backed the brand and it has raced to the top in the performance running category in a little over ten years

Proceeds from the IPO can be used for international expansion and opening new stores

On was established in 2010. It is now the leader of a fast-growing group of running shoes. The brand’s sales shot up 59 percent last year, to 425.3 million Swiss Francs (about $464 million), and are on pace to grow nearly 50 percent this year. On, which is profitable, is not like Allbirds, another upcoming sneaker IPO.

How did they do it so well? Much of On’s success comes down to a combination of innovative design — cushioning designed to soften landings — that draw distance runners, with looks that appeal to shoppers at Dover Street Market and Ssense as well. Roger Federer, an elite, internationally-respected athlete, has given On the seal of approval. This is a must-have for any new sneaker brand.

The Bottom Line: On is still a niche brand outside of the running world despite its rapid growth. The IPO will likely change that. It will allow the brand to open more shops, invest in ecommerce, and expand into new markets.

This item was contributed by Marc Bain

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